The Provence Palette – Finding Lavender and Ochre Mines in Rustrel
It’s early July in Provence, and the lavender fields of the Luberon are in full bloom. The usual earthy tones of the Provençal landscape are broken up by vibrant sweeps of purple, and the air is filled with the unmistakable scent of lavender in the sun.
Heading inland through hillside villages – including a couple officially ranked among France’s most beautiful – the drive passes orchards heavy with stone fruit and olive groves ripening for the season ahead.
Our destination is Rustrel, a quiet village nestled on the northern edge of the Luberon Natural Regional Park.
Yet lavender isn’t the only colour that paints the landscape around Rustrel. Lush greenery clings to the hillsides despite the dry climate, giving way to a burst of red and orange earth at the Colorado Provençal – a former ochre quarry turned nature trail, whose dramatic cliffs and ridges echo the desert landscapes of the American Southwest.
Discovering Rustrel
Arriving in the village of Rustrel, my first impression was how quiet it is. Unlike nearby Roussillon with its large (paid) car parks and tour buses queuing in the streets, Rustrel seems untouched by tourism on this sleepy Tuesday morning.
After an early start to the day, a quick stop at Brasserie des Ocres in the village centre was a welcome pause. A slice of warm pissaladière and a cup of thé vert made for a simple, satisfying breakfast, as the morning sun began to stretch across the square.
The village was slowly coming to life – delivery vans unloading fresh supplies, shutters creaking open, and the first few dog walkers making their rounds before the heat set in.
With a bit of energy restored, the walk toward the Colorado Provençal began. The route wound through quiet lanes, where pretty houses framed by bright foliage and worn stone façades invited lingering glances. Eventually, the last houses gave way to open countryside, marking the edge of the village and the start of the trail.
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The Colorado Provençal
Although the Colorado Provençal is often overshadowed by the more famous Ochre Trail in Roussillon, the sight of its flame-red and burnt orange cliffs emerging from the surrounding greenery immediately stood out upon arriving in Rustrel.
The entrance to the site is an easy 15-minute walk from the village centre, and approaching it on foot also avoids the €6 parking fee charged at the main lot.
The route is well signposted and the entrance is obvious from the main road. We walked past the queue waiting to enter the car park and followed other walkers down a dusty path into the forest.
The feel is much more rustic than the Ochre Trail, and the route is more of a suggestion than a requirement. A sign indicated we’d soon reach an aqueduct, and I had visions of the grand structures I’d seen in this part of France, but the reality was somewhat more humble…
After the mini aqueduct, the ground started to turn a warmer shade, suggesting we were on the right track. And sure enough, a few turns later, we were greeted with towering cliffs the colour of caramel.
We wandered around the track marvelling at the range of colours and the unique shapes that have been etched into the earth over time, pausing occasionally to seek shade under an orange-tinged tree.
Eventually, the sun got the better of us. And with the mercury rising above 35°C, we retreated back to the shady streets for a respite while we returned to the village.
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Lavender Fields of Rustrel
Taking another route back to the village, down quiet country lanes, had us walking by old stone farmhouses. Their pastel-coloured shutters firmly closed to keep the heat at bay.
Ducks happily bathed under leafy trees while butterflies floated past on a warm breeze.
It wasn’t long until the telltale sight of a field of purple flowers stopped us in our tracks. Walking carefully between the neatly plotted rows, bees happily buzzed around our ankles as they flew from one beautiful bud to another.
It was like stepping into a photograph, an impression enhanced as a powder-blue Citroën 2cv drove past – the low hum of its engine lingering as I gaped open-mouthed at the perfection of the scene before me.
We passed two more open fields of lavender on our walk back. Stopping each time to take in the scent and sight, and feeling inadequate as I tried desperately to capture the beauty on my camera.
The walk back from the Colorado Provençal to Rustrel village is a peaceful and scenic route, with plenty of lavender fields lining the way – their vibrant purple blooms making the journey all the more magical.
Rustrel made for an ideal day trip from Aix-en-Provence. The journey offers a true taste of Provence – from postcard-perfect villages and lavender fields in full bloom to the vivid ochre landscapes that give this region its signature warmth and colour.
If you’re spending time in the Luberon this summer, do not miss a trip to Rustrel!
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Beautiful! I went to Roussillon a couple of summers ago, but I didn’t know there was another village with so much ochre.
Thanks Laura. Yes, it surprised me also! I had vaguely heard of the Colorado Provençal, but had forgotten it was in Rustrel. It’s actually just as impressive – just somewhat less touristy 😉
Sooo beautiful. Got to add to my bucket list
I will be staying in Rustrel in just a few weeks and would love to enjoy your walking tour of lavender there. Is there a way I can print the map you have included in your dialog?
Hi Polly, I think you should be able to print it from this link. Have fun!