Porquerolles Island | A Guide to the French Riviera’s Car-Free Escape
Just off the coast of Hyères lies a place that still feels somewhat wild and untouched. Where bikes are the main mode of transport, and the sound of cicadas chirping among the trees replaces the usual hum of traffic. Welcome to Porquerolles Island, the largest of the îles d’Hyères and perhaps the most enchanting.
With no cars (save for a few local service vehicles), no high-rise resorts, and no sense of urgency, this is a place that invites you to slow down and appreciate the quiet side of the Côte d’Azur. Far away from the glitzier Riviera names, yet still with a sense of charm that evokes a bygone era.
The island, nicknamed the “floating forest”, feels like a botanical garden at sea, a status cemented by its place within one of France’s earliest National Parks.
Where is Porquerolles Island, and How to Get There
Porquerolles Island is located off the Mediterranean coast of France, between Toulon and Saint-Tropez. To get there, you can take a ferry or guided tour. Both options are explored below.
Ferry from Hyères
If you have a car, the quickest way to reach the island is via ferry from La Tour Fondue, at the end of the Giens Peninsula. Ferries leave from here every 30-45 minutes in the summertime, and the journey only takes 20 minutes. You can check the schedule here.
Parking at Tour Fondue is plentiful, but it still gets full during July and August. So arrive early to guarantee a spot. It also costs a premium here, with a daily rate capped at €21 (€2.40 an hour). Alternatively, you can park at the free Arromanches car park near Hyères Port, and from there, during summer, you can catch a shuttle bus to the ferry stop at Tour Fondue.
Ferries also depart directly from Port Saint-Pierre in Hyères, but there are only a few crossings a day, so you’ll have to plan accordingly.
Ferry from Toulon
During April to October, it’s also possible to take a ferry to Porquerolles from the city of Toulon. There are three departure points around the city – the main port, Les Sablettes, and Saint-Mandrier. The latter two ports have free parking available.
Ferries from Toulon depart at 9 or 9.30 in the morning, and return between 5-6 pm the same day, depending on the travel date. You can find the timetable here.
Summer Ferries from Other Ports
In the peak summer months, even more options are available, with seasonal ferries leaving from La Londe-les-Maures, Le Lavandou, Bormes-les-Mimosas, Cavalaire, Saint-Tropez, Saint-Raphael, Sanary-sur-Mer, and Bandol.
Tours to Porquerolles
If you prefer the convenience of a tour, there are many to choose from – from full-day tours that leave plenty of time for exploration on the island, to boat cruises of the coast. You’ll find the most popular options here:
When to Visit Porquerolles
Timing is everything when visiting this tranquil isle. Time your visit right, and you’ll enjoy the island at its best.
Spring
Come on a sunny weekday in Spring for a soft warmth, wildflowers, quiet beaches, and being able to grab lunch without a reservation. The water will be a little cooler at this time of year, but it’s still perfectly swimmable – especially after a vigorous hike.
Things heat up (both figuratively and literally) by mid-June, and you’ll want to reserve your ferry in advance if coming on the weekend.
Summer
July and August are peak season throughout the South of France, and it shows. The village is bustling, the ferries are bursting, and Plage Notre-Dame can feel like the Côte d’Azur’s worst-kept secret. That said, if you like the vibrant energy of a European summer, it’s still one of the more unique places to visit, and has that Mediterranean island wow-factor.
Autumn
Similar to Spring, once the kids have gone back to school, Autumn can bring a level of peace back to the island. The weather is still warm enough to enjoy the vineyards, trails and beaches. And the sea is warmer now than it was in Spring.
Winter
Porquerolles doesn’t shut down over winter, but the ferries become less frequent and may be cancelled if the weather is bad. There are fewer restaurants and shops open, but you’ll still be able to enjoy the island and all it has to offer – minus the crowds.
Day Trip or Overnight Stay?
Most visitors make a day trip to Porquerolles, but with the last ferry to the mainland departing around 7.30 pm in the summer, they’re leaving a lot of unrealised experiences on the table. Think candlelit dinners next to a sparkling sea, sunset swims, and relaxing into the true pace of island life.
If you want to explore Porquerolles in depth, staying a night or two will allow you a fuller experience. Luckily, there are plenty of options for an unforgettable stay on Porquerolles, including the following:
– Hôtel le Porquerollais for a charming, authentic stay with great hospitality.
– Villa Sainte Anne is located in the main square, a stone’s throw from the island’s restaurants and shops.
– L’Oustaou de Porquerolles is a boutique property, ideal for couples travelling to Porquerolles.
– This boat in the Porquerolles Marina offers a unique stay that’s suitable for families.
Things to do in Porquerolles
Bring your comfortable shoes when visiting Porquerolles, as this car-free island is ripe for exploration! Here’s just a taste of how you can fill your time.
Visit the Best Beaches
One of the main drawcards for Porquerolles is its pristine beaches, which are often ranked as some of France’s most beautiful. Set out on foot or bike and follow dusty paths to hidden bays and stunning shorelines, or pop the following into your GPS if you’re after a sure thing.
Plage Notre Dame (above) is the most famous of Porquerolles’ beaches, and undoubtedly the busiest. This crescent-shaped cove is flanked by pine trees offering shade on hot days and offers shallow, calm waters for swimming.
Plage d’Argent lies on the other side of Porquerolles village and is arguably more family-friendly, as it’s more accessible and has an onsite restaurant for an easy lunch.
Plage du Lequin (above) is my favourite beach on the island. Perplexingly, it escapes the large crowds, as most bypass it for Notre-Dame. Home to translucent water, soft white sand, and an idyllic natural backdrop, the only downside is that you have to share your swimming space with the boats, as they come in a bit closer to shore here.
Cycle the Island
More than just a convenient way to get around, cycling on Porquerolles is a true pleasure. There are just over 50km of bike trails on the island, and using two wheels will allow you to explore more of the island.
There are many bike rental shops in the village, and you’ll see several as you alight your ferry. Choose electric if you want to take on the more challenging routes with ease.
Do note that bikes aren’t allowed everywhere on the island – so respect the signs that restrict access.
Hiking & Nature Walks
I personally prefer to explore on foot, and Porquerolles is ideal for doing just that. Wander away from the main stretches and you’ll find a myriad of trails weaving through the fragrant bush and pine trees. Wander past olive groves, explore abandoned forts, and find secret viewpoints.
You can find many walking routes on the AllTrails app, or simply follow the signposts around the island.
Visit the Village
Porquerolles village isn’t large, but it’s worth a wander. While restaurants and bike rental shops take centre stage, there are a few boutiques, galleries, and ice cream shops hidden among the awnings.
Aside from the commercial aspect, it’s just a thoroughly charming place to explore – think pastel façades draped with bougainvillaea, eucalyptus-lined streets, and the quintessential game of boules taking place in the village square.
Don’t miss poking your head inside the Sainte-Anne Church to see the Stations of the Cross carved in walnut by Joseph Wargnier in 1869.
Cultural Attractions
While nature takes centre stage on Porquerolles, there are also a few cultural highlights you’ll want to add to your itinerary.
Fort Sainte-Agathe is an easy cultural add-on to a beach day, as it’s located just above the village. Here, you can learn more about the islands’ military history and explore the 16th-century fort. Or you can just take in the panoramic views!
Fondation Carmignac is a contemporary art space featuring a collection of works by international artists. But the works lining the walls aren’t the only attraction here. The architecturally designed villa that houses them features an aquatic ceiling and elegant lines. The gardens are where you’ll find sculptures dotted among the native plants.
The Lighthouse at Cap d’Arme sits on the southern edge of Porquerolles and affords visitors views over the entire island and beyond to the Giens Peninsula. The 19th-century lighthouse and its immediate grounds aren’t accessible to the public. But come here for the views before visiting the Gorges du Loup for a dip.
Wine Tasting
Pouquerolles vineyards produce wine that is distinctly flavoured by the unique terroir and sea air. So, rounding off your visit to the island with a wine tasting should be a high priority.
Domaine La Courtade is an organic vineyard that was founded in 1983 by Henry Vidal. The domaine covers some 35 hectares that produce wines that are rich, elegant and structured. Pop in for a tasting, or savour a glass over lunch at Le Poisson Ivre – the onsite restaurant.
The formerly family-owned Domaine de l’île has since been entrusted to the Chanel group, which also acquired the neighbouring vineyard, Domaine Perzinsky. Visit La Table du Domaine de l’Ile, on the outskirts of the village, to sample their white and rosé wines over lunch or dinner.
Where to Eat & Drink
Wander through the village, and you’ll be confronted with an overwhelming choice of places to eat.
Le Fly Deck is a relaxed and friendly place to grab a bite to eat before heading out for a hike or bike ride around the island. Nearby, L’Orangeraie also serves traditional fare in its shaded courtyard.
For a more upmarket experience, head to La Pinède at Le Mas du Langoustier. Here you can dine on Mediterranean cuisine while overlooking the sea.
If you’re looking to fill your picnic basket instead, there’s a Vival near the waterfront that you can call into on your way to the beach. There are also plenty of ice creameries on hand for that late afternoon treat!
Porquerolles offers a chance to discover a different side of the South of France. A place removed from the hustle & bustle, and which resembles the charm of yesteryear. You may come for the beaches, but you’ll fall in love with the joy of discovery – of hidden trails leading to perfect coves, of quiet vineyards, secret art galleries, and a landscape wearing the scars of a military history.
Whether you arrive for a day or a weekend, you’ll leave better off having experienced the art of living slowly in Porquerolles.
